There is a particular kind of traveler—or simply the man who has learned to slow down—who believes that a region reveals itself not through its monuments, but through its tables. It was in this spirit that we descended upon Umbria and Tuscany, moving from hilltop to hilltop the way one might move from chapter to chapter in a novel one is reluctant to finish. There is a particular kind of traveler - the family who has learned to slow down—who believes that a region reveals its